02 November 2007

Soul Stealing from the Back of a Motorbike - My New Weekend Pastime

Last weekend was like something out of a dream: I was on the back of a motorbike, on a dirt road, driving along the coast of West Africa. Unbelievable. Even more unbelievable is that fact that I actually took some photos! I know, I know. Very hard to believe, but I did. And I attribute this strange occurrence to the motorbike. Yes, things are getting very strange indeed. First, I was on a motorbike (remember, this is conservative me we're talking about), and now, I'm saying it was fantastic and is the sole reason for the photos you're about to see. Let me explain.

Benin is not an easy place to take photos. People are everywhere, all the time. Don't get me wrong, I love photos with people in them and you'd be hard-pressed to find a more photogenic people than the Beninese (especially the kids!), but let's not forget, this is voodoo country. You take someone's photo, you've stolen their sole. Luckily, most Beninese people will happily sell their camera-loving soul for a few francs; however, you do run the risk of running into the few who would rather throw a temper-tantrum and shout at you in Fon (local language here) than squeeze you for your pocket change. I guess their souls are worth more to them. Just the sight of your camera sends some people off; you don't even have time to ask them for permission. So needless to say, I'm not too keen on whipping out the camera.

Also, this means that you have to ask everyone in the general vicinity before you take a photo which draws additional attention to yourself and makes it virtually impossible to get those precious candid shots. The whole thing adds up to a less than ideal photo taking experience. You aren't going to be walking the streets of Benin with your fanny pack and your camera hanging around your neck.

I've tried taking photos from inside the car, but it's hard to get a nice picture through a dirty window. To top it off, the crowded, poorly maintained streets combined with the car's large size rule out any stealthy get-aways if someone decides to pull a crazy. Actually, you'd probably be better off on foot. At least then you could run for it.

So this weekend on the motorbike was a real treat. I could pull out T's camera phone (already much easier to disguise than my Sony Cyber-shot) and steal a photo (or a soul) on the run. And I did. And at the risk of being excessive, I've posted most of my shots here, not because I'm proud of them as photos, but because I'm proud that I finally managed to take them.

Let's start with the beach. Can you believe I actually live here? 20 minutes on a motorbike and I'm swimming in this ocean? No, neither can I.

But here's my proof :-) Obviously, I can't take credit for taking this photo.

See, T was there too, looking naturally contemplative in a sort of James Dean kind of way...

And this is how we got there, and why I am able to post these photos here... Can you tell I love the motorbike? Who would have ever thought! I think I might have to get my own now :-) That green and yellow jalopy behind it is a taxi cab. I think we've got the better ride, don't you?

This is the road that takes you to the beach. Yeah, I know it's boring, but that's what people do. They take pictures and then make other people look at them. I'm sorry. I can't be expected to break tradition.

And these are some of the things that got in our way and slowed us down... First, cows complete with herder. (Ah! There's the beef, Gondul!)

And then fishermen carting a giant net.

I wonder if this is their boat?

It could be anybody's boat really. There are lots of little communities of people living all along the coast, though they may be sparse communities compared to the hustle and bustle of Cotonou.

So sparse that this old restaurant/bar looks very out-of-business indeed. But I guess it was probably meant for Yovos anyway.

That's it folks. Slide show is over. You are free. Thanks for watching. Come again.

3 comments:

kimananda said...

Thank you for the slide show! I found it interesting, actually, and look forward to more. The 'photos from the back of a bike' concept is clearly working for you! So, when would be a good time of year for me to visit you? Keeping in mind that I'll be slightly busy around May of next year. ;-)

Anonymous said...

lol! There's the beef : )

Great photos - they are worth the wait.

Ah, yes, the appeal of a bike. They are great little toys . . . I miss mine : (

Mind you I sold it nearly 10 years ago - did I really just admit to my age there!

Anonymous said...

ps - like the shirt you are wearing : )